![]() Depending on the level of rodent love in your area you may get flagged and removed. If all you have in your area is Petco/PetSmart to buy feeders from, you can try getting rodents at expos or by going on Craigslist to the pet section and looking for someone advertising feeder rats, advertise looking for someone selling feeder rats advertise looking for someone to split the cost of an online order. They will likely resist, it will likely be a huge headache. If you feed mice you will probably want to switch them to rats one day, and balls aren’t big fans of making changes. Mice can actually be more nutritious, but it takes several to feed an adult snake. I personally don’t feed mice to adult balls, unless that ball is very stubborn, and won’t take rats. However, hopper mouse moves around a lot more than a pinky rat, and can better entice a hatchling snake. You do not want your ball python to imprint on them, and refuse anything else. If you have alternatives, don’t feed with mice at all. At that point do not continue to increase the rats size at the same rate as that of the snake.Ī ball python should NEVER need to be fed mouse pinkies, unless force or assist feeding a hatchling, because pinkies are too small of a food item, and for early eaters, they don’t move enough to catch their attention. ![]() Do not go over 1.5X the width of your BP’s body, up to about 1000 grams of the ball python. Remember this rule of thumb: feed a prey item that, at its widest part, is the same width as the widest part of the snake’s body. You can cover your lid in part, a number of ways, such as bristol board, cardboard, towel, etc., to change your humidity level. You can adjust the percentage of your screen that is covered until your desired humidity and temps are reached. If you have a tank with a screen top, cover part of the screen and monitor your humidity. Never use a screen cage to house a Ball Python. While BP’s do need ventilation, a screen cage or screen aquarium top can cause too much humidity to escape. Ball Pythons require warm-side temps (warm end of habitat) of 90-92 deg F. This is a common, serious mistake which can lead to serious burns.
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